Benares Restaurant & Bar

TV fame used to spell the end of a chef's reputation, the argument being you'd sold your soul for recognition by the couch potatoes. But fortunately the BBC series Great British Menu has put paid to that myth and now foodies everywhere can enjoy cooks on telly without guilt. Atul Kochhar (above left) chef and patron of Benares, has been one of the real winners. The TV cameras detected his integrity along with his skill: confident but still modest, a softly-spoken perfectionist, and a terrific ambassador for the flavours of his home country, India. His restaurant has benefited enormously, enticing many people who otherwise wouldn't have tried Indian food while reassuring those who admired Kuchhar that they were right after all. (In 2001 he was one of the first Indian chefs to receive a Michelin star, at the same time as Vineet Bhatia - see below - who was then at Zaika restaurant.) Benares is a very swanky operation indeed capturing the mood of Indian traditional design without being corny. There's a large bar, private dining rooms and pools of water with floating flowers and twinkling tea lights. The large dining room makes up for having no natural light with textured white walls, cream chairs and clever lighting. A chef's table is planned along with a redesign of the bar area. Given the Berkeley Square location it has a substantial business trade at lunchtime but it comes into its own at night as an intimate, romantic destination, a favourite for hot dates. The food is divine and beautifully presented on stylish modern china. After poppadoms which come with four different chutneys in crisp white dishes, order spinach and chick pea patties, or delicious soft shell crab with squid. Scallops are served in three different ways with very subtle flavours; a gutsy portion of roe deer has a spicy crust; and Kerala chicken stew comes with coconut kedgeree. Dahl, the mainstay of Indian cooking may be black and deeply savoury or yellow which is lighter, fragrant and more refreshing. Desserts avoid the sickly Indian sweets the English have never taken to. Instead try lemon tart with jelly, fennel seeds and shavings of hot chilli. The service is immaculate - thoughtful, friendly but not intrusive - very Mayfair. The Italian maître d', Paolo, a graduate of Giorgio Locatelli's city restaurant Refettorio, supervises a team of elegant waiters and very pretty girls who are blessed with a sense of humour. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, London W1, 020 7629 8886; www.benaresrestaurant.com

 

Rasoi Vineet Bhatia

Vineet Bhatia (above centre) is a quiet but determined chef who has built up an international reputation with a minimum of fuss. His flagship restaurant which opened in June 2004 occupies a tall narrow townhouse in a quiet Chelsea street far from the razzmatazz of the West End. From his first arrival in the UK 15 years ago, Vineet resolved to show that Indian cooking was equal to European cultures. He gained a Michelin star in 2001 (in his earlier incarnation at Zaika) and regained it in 2006 at his new restaurant. Rasoi means "kitchen" and there's an unthreatening family friendliness to the L-shaped room on the raised ground floor with a huge glass dome over the rear section and a bar connecting the two parts. Above are two further rooms seating up to 10 and 20, perfect for private dinners. There is a pleasing whimsy to the décor with silk drapes, ethnic wall hangings and traditional statues, rich wedding saris framed as works of art, and a huge brass bell. But there's nothing homely about the food. Everything he does is carefully conceived and delicious: light, witty and subtly spiced. Dishes may be a triple interpretation of a single ingredient like chicken done with crispy ginger and curry leaf, a chicken sheekh kebab, and tamarind salad; a trio of intense flavours, a real wow factor. His reputation has spread by stealth, not grabbing the headlines but influencing people who matter. British Airways co-opted him onto their Culinary Council, the advisory board of a handful of top chefs who advise on in-flight .food. He has a restaurant in Moscow and an impressive partnership with One and Only Resorts. In October 2007, he opened Rasoi by Vineet at the ultra chic resort Le St Géran, Mauritius, his menus there naturally influenced by the tropical seafood found on that lush island. This month sees a new launch in London, Urban Turban, a casual take on Indian food with smaller sharing plates based loosely on the tapas style. You can order flavoured naan breads, chicken in sweet-sour chutney, sword fish poached in coconut sauce infused with curry leaf and ginger, and Vineet's signature salmon dish, honey and mustard tandoori salmon. Urban Turban occupies a huge corner site with plate glass windows on Westbourne Grove in fashionable Notting Hill. It spreads over two floors with warm timber wall panels, dark oak floor and seating on a mixture of stools, banquettes and low chairs upholstered in bright ribbon fabric. It has the carefree appearance of a lounge bar, an ideal place to recruit more fans for his distinctive, original cooking. Rasoi Vineet Bhatia, 10 Lincoln Street, London SW3, 020 7225 1881; Urban Turban, 98 Westbourne Grove, London W2, 020 7243 4200

 

Chor Bizarre

It is ten years since Chor Bizarre opened in London but the restaurant never seemed to rate one hundred percent foodie approval - there was always lurking suspicion of the gimmicky interior with its eccentric mix of antiques, bric-a-brac and pure junk. But we've grown to love it for two reasons. One is the coming-of-age of Manpreet Singh Ahuja (above right) who used to be number two in the kitchen but now has the top job as head chef. The other is the vast contribution made by wine expert Charles Metcalfe who has devised a wine list that perfectly complements this very good authentic Indian food. Chef Manpreet has compiled a new menu to showcase the glories of Indian regional cuisine including five-course thali tasting menus while Charles Metcalfe has come up with not one but two wine pairings for each dish. Wines are drawn from producers across the world including France, Germany, South Africa, New Zealand and Argentine, and all are available by the glass. Menu highlights include prawns tak-a-tak combining Punjabi cooking methods with South Indian spicing; Salli Jardaloo Murg, a Parsi dish of chicken in sweet and sour sauce with apricots, toasted cumin and cinnamon; and Methi Gosht, tender lamb pieces steeped in a fresh fenugreek and spinach sauce flavoured with ginger. The 10th anniversary celebrations have included a refurbished interior and a new space downstairs which is both a private dining room and a gallery to showcase modern Indian artists. Chor Bizarre also features a clever take on the concept of afternoon tea, London's first Indian Tea Bar, "Chai Bazaar" which opens in the afternoon and serves 30 different teas along with a High Tea platter of spicy savouries. 16 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, London W1, 020 7629 9802; www.chorbizarre.com

 

We now recognise Indian food as one of the world's great cuisines, thanks to Indian chefs who've opened restaurants in London, and brought the Michelin man to heel. A far cry from the lager 'n' curry culture a decade ago.

Must Try

There are too many fine Indian restaurants in London to do justice to them all this month. Here's a round-up of news from some of our favourites.

At Tamarind, Michelin-starred chef Alfred Prasad composes dishes according to the seasons and his pre-Christmas menu was a celebration of autumnal riches. The New Year brings a lighter touch with a special detox lunch menu with reduced fat, salt and calories while keeping balanced, aromatic flavours. 20 Queen Street, Mayfair, London W1, 020 7629 3561; www.tamarind
restaurant.com

The Cinnamon Club is celebrating Valentine's Day with a lavish four-course dinner devised by Executive Chef Vivek Singh. Start with Saffron Elixir, a cocktail of saffron gin, Goldschläger (cinnamon schnapps with gold particles suspended in it), and pomegranate, spiced with cardamom and kaffir lime leaves. The menu includes a scallop and oyster appetiser, lobster with coconut and mustard, chicken with morel korma, Pyrenean lamb roasted in the tandoor, and a decadent chocolate dessert with ice cream. £70 per person, available 13 - 16 February. The Old Westminster Library, 30-32 Great Smith Street, London SW1, 020 7222 2555; www.cinnamonclub.com

Cyrus Todiwala, the chef and owner of Cafe Spice Namasté at Tower Bridge, has a very special relationship with his City clients. He's even named some of his dishes after regulars and holds daytime Master Chef demonstrations led by either himself or a selection of top chefs around London. This is part of the Adventure Gourmet programme that Cyrus has devised which will include Kitchen Alive! and gourmet culinary tours. Over the next few months the Master Chef programme includes John Williams from the Ritz hotel (17 January), the king of fusion food Peter Gordon (March) and French bistro food from Chris Galvin (May). Cyrus prepares Indian canapés and starters (15 February), seafood (22 February), and BBQ Indian style (10 June). Each event costs £125 and includes refreshments on arrival, the cooking demonstration and lunch. There are also short, one-hour evening courses which include the demonstration and dinner, £95. Gift vouchers are available for all these events. 16 Prescot Street, London E1, 020 7488 9242; www.cafespice.co.uk

Chutney Mary is part of the family-owned clutch of restaurants that includes Veeraswamy in Piccadilly, the glossy Michelin-starred Amaya in Belgravia, and the hugely popular Indian street food restaurants, Masala Zone. But Chutney Mary is special, more glamorous and romantic than its siblings with fine regional food from all over the subcontinent. Though it's chiefly an evening restaurant, it is now open for lunch at weekends with a three-course menu for just £22. It's ideal for the whole family as there's a special children's menu for the under-9s, two courses for £10, and the added attraction of live, mellow jazz. And, as it's remarkably close to Stamford Bridge, you can take in a Chelsea game to round off the perfect afternoon. 535 King's Road, London SW10, 020 7351 3113; www.chutneymary.com